After 4 days I’m already out of Rioja and in to the region of Castilla y Leon, supposedly named because of all the castles that used to be here.

After I last posted (I was writing in a bar enjoying my post-walk beer because the albergue didn’t have wifi), I went back to the church to help get dinner started. We made up a ton of potatoes but the kitchen didn’t have an oven. So we brought the pans down the street to the baker! Apparently they do this every night, and at the eight o’clock the entire group of us (35) had to all strike up into song and walk through the town singing as loud as we could, all the way to the baker’s door. We literally had to sing for our supper! When the baker was satisfied she picked 5 guys to go in and get the potatoes, and then they came out singing with crazy wigs on that they had to wear all the way back to the kitchen. It was such a fun, unique experience.

I got up early and really enjoyed a quiet walk by myself. The others were stopping in a big town to watch the Spain/Germany football/soccer game last night. The walking goes slower without company but I enjoy it more. And I ended up chatting with an old guy out for his morning walk. Just a nice morning. I’m out of wine country and in to wheat fields. It must be incredibly golden in the summer.

Here are a few miscellaneous photos for you media lovers. It has been in the 70s and sun sun sunny! Trying not to get burned again!

“Take what you need, leave what you can.”

Last night I stayed in another church-run, communal style, sleep-on-the-floor place. This one was more ‘strict’ with a prayer service in the evening. The head volunteer is a Franciscan monk who let me help make the soup in the kitchen, and he sang old pilgrimage songs the whole time. Very sweet guy. I wanted to stay there also to see an ancient church that was dug out of the rock face. They organized a little tour (and asked me to translate! Eek!) with a sweet old lady who knew the history, although they don’t know much. They know part of the altar dates from the 12th century but it was only discovered recently. Really incredible place. They wouldn’t allow photos inside, but the paint was still vibrant. The outside facade is only 50 years old but you can see the rock and get an idea:

Walking today I felt like I was in highlands in the UK. And then up and over a couple really big hills.

I felt really good walking today, 23k in only 5 and a half hours. Got my groove on!