Yesterday morning I woke up from probably the best night sleep I’ve had the whole camino, but was still sick. I lingered in bed until 7:30 and then made my way to the closest coffee shop, where most of my camino friends also happened to be. I was in one if those moods that “all I want is a coffee” and the one guy running the place kept making coffees and giving them to people that walked in after me. And then I found out that the whole rest of my group had made a reservation for an albergue that night, except not for me. And being in just a miserable little mood I sat by myself stirring the coffee that I finally wrestled, all sad and alone on my high horse (we have been complaining about people who reserve beds because they leave no space for other walkers) until I heard that the first place they had called was already completely reserved the night before. And that did it, I got off my horse and asked if they could add me to the reservation.

All morning I was walking by myself and thinking about being part of the pre-reservation problem. Until I realized that I wasn’t looking at everyone else as a potential bed-stealer. I was able to really be happy for all of the folks (okay, the bus full of high school students I wasn’t happy about) who were also having this experience and not worry about being stuck without a bed. I mean, 100 km is still an accomplishment, right?

Although sometimes I’m still puzzled/perturbed by the newbies. For example, this morning in the cafe I watched 4 young, healthy looking guys load their packs into a van to be shuttled ahead. I understand the older folks and those with injuries shipping their packs, but the young people? Yesterday we saw a man who I expect had a stroke pushing his bag ahead of him in a specialized stroller. That’s real gumption. I can’t help but shake my head at all of the ladies in make-up and white sneakers walking with just a fanny-pack or even just a water bottle.

“Day Walkers”

The mob

I’m also amazed by the number of taxis that go by. After Sarria there is the two-stamp-rule, meaning you need to get at least one additional stamp in your pilgrim’s passport (besides the place where you sleep which up until now have been the only necessary ones) in order to prove that you walked/biked the path. However this morning we saw a middle-aged couple walk out of the albergue in the wrong direction. We waved at them and pointed to the yellow arrows indicating the Camino and they said ‘no no, taxi.’ It really would not be difficult to get a taxi, hop out at a roadside cafe, get a stamp, and then hop back in. But I can not understand why you would come all the way here just to take a taxi every day.

I did have a hard reminder yesterday not to assume the worst; while I was still in the coffee shop I heard our friend Hilary say she was taking a taxi to the next town. She has been walking for the last 4 weeks and has just developed what she thinks is a stress fracture in her foot. It’s really heartbreaking; I remember how hard it was for me to recognize I had a problem back at the beginning of the trip. The last two days our friends split up her stuff and carried everything for her, but it’s still getting worse. To be this close and not be able to walk is unbelievable. So now when I see people waiting for their taxis I try to think that maybe they’ve broken something too. Although it’s usually doubtful.

Since we’re reserving our beds I’m with a big group of folks that I’ve been on and off with for the last month. I think it’s actually a really nice way to spend the last week of walking; spending afternoons with the people I’ve met along the way and thinking about the places we’ve been. Yesterday we had a wonderful afternoon drinking wine and sun down by the river. James jumped off a bridge and Tim and Anna sent a message in a bottle. There was also a lot of ice cream.

As for the walking itself, it has been mostly along the edges of roads the last two days. We’ve crossed the 100km mark so each kilometer marker is exciting! It was cloudy today and is supposed to start raining in Thursday. I’ve been treating myself to naps in the afternoon and I think the sickness is starting to lift. Robin, my knees still do hurt sometimes! I just don’t want to complain about too many things at once! I want you to know I’m still having a good time here. Although two days ago I decided I’m ready to stop walking. Looking forward to getting there.

Made it to 100 km with Jasmine and Melanie who I met just after Pamplona!