Galicia

So I need to eat my words, regarding not having anymore good experiences. I was walking along this morning and came upon what looked like a little house just on the side if the path except there was a cross at the peak of the roof, and I could feel good energy radiating out. There was a sign in the door, “Prayer here.” Just when I was walking past an Australian woman popped her head out and said “Have you seen this? Come in!”

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We sat there in peace for a few minutes (I got out the rosary that a friend gave me from Mother Mary’s house in Ephesus Turkey for good measure) until the man of the house came in. His name is Arthur, he’s from outside if Oxford England, and after walking the Camino in 2006 he decided he wanted to do more. He found the building the next year and has been working on it since; it used to be a stable. The upstairs is devoted as a prayer room and he lives downstairs, where the animals lived. He asked to prayer for us before we left, and then after telling him how I had been feeling that there was no “Spirit of the Camino” left this close to the end, I teared up again. A little shot of love was exactly what I needed and hadn’t been expecting.

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And it turned out to be a lovely walking day as well. The path split early this morning and I took the shorter way which was also more natural pathway. It seems like most people took the other way which was more road, but passed by Somos, a very old and famous monastery. Most of the day I walked by myself; there was one man I could see in front of me and when I felt I was getting too close I stopped to take a picture or listen to the birds. A lot of walking on forest path. I’m in the Galicia region now which is very wet and lush.

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    Tonight I’m staying outside of Sarria, which is the most popular starting point for pilgrims owing to the fact that it’s just over 100 km from Santiago, the minimum distance necessary to receive a Compostela certificate at the end. That means that starting tomorrow there will be many more pilgrims jockeying for beds, but supposedly there are also many more albergues so hopefully it won’t be a problem.

    Two other things: Bob, I knew the word “conquer” wasn’t quite appropriate to use in referencing mountains when I wrote it and you’ve rightly called me out. But what verb would express the drama? Survived? Experienced? I’m open to suggestions!

    And finally, sadly, I’m sick. The cough/sinus thing I had in France came back last week after walking in the cold rain, and I thought it was allergies again (you could see the pollen floating on the puddles), but yesterday it took a turn for the worse. My cough is bad and I just feel run down. I don’t think I have A fever but I took a 2 hour nap this afternoon which I never do! And now I’m back to bed as soon as I post this. Hopefully I’ll feel better in the morning!

    Happy Mothers Day to everyone! I saw this today; a good omen I’m sure 🙂

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8 comments for “Galicia

  1. May 13, 2013 at 7:01 am

    So sorry to hear you’re sick again. Your body seems to have a tough time sometimes keeping up with your adventure and plans. I love the little house of prayer. Is it just my imagination or do you forget about your knee problems when you get this “cold” thing coming on? At least you don’t seem to suffer from both ends at once. Happy trails.

  2. Robert Reynolds
    May 13, 2013 at 11:15 am

    Nicole –
    Now I feel badly for “calling you out” – I certainly did not and do not want to insert negative energy in such a positive experience.
    My comment reflects my understanding of the nature of ‘interaction’ with inanimate objects in nature – a mountain, a redwood tree, a sunrise, a rose petal, etc. Obviously these objects do not respond directly to us. As ‘conquer’ implies an active contest we search for terms to better explain an obvious interaction – because our being tells us that an interaction, contest even, is underway. But what is the nature of this interaction?
    My perception is that the interaction is internal to our being, and the inanimate object of nature provides the stage and setting for this internal discussion about self. Am I strong? Can I persevere? What are my limits? Can I be independent? What is my nature?
    Your interaction with the mountain did not change the mountain, but it certainly helped you gain increased clarity internally. I think you gained respect for your mental and physical strength even while gaining understanding of your physical and emotional limits – a truly fine day! And thus a thank you to the mountain might be in order. But I think ‘conquer’ is indeed an accurate description of the internal apprehensions you struggled with and confronted! Congratulations are now in order!

    Were I in your situation I would be on total overload! You have physical challenges bombarding you with questions about self, and social and cultural interactions bombarding you with questions about the nature of humankind. This is a platefull – and I have always pretty much taken my vegetables and fruit one at a time… But you go girl. This pilgrimage is redefining the term and is really a metaphor of the complexity of modern times. You are doing well to soak it in, and the understanding and insights will emerge in bits and pieces over the rest of your life.
    You are a worthy Pilgrim!
    Bob

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