Japan: Tokyo & Nikko

As expected, this has been a huge change from Mongolia. Even my mindset on my way here was different. I wrote this on my plane out of Mongolia:

“I am feeling big, and full of emotion from a comfortable place somewhere in the center of my chest. I am on my flight from UB to Beijing. For the first time in a month I have had regular internet access and so have restarted the endless parade of ‘what if’s and ‘where to’s. Locating the hostel in Kamakura, Japan on the map. Searching for the cheapest flights from Hong Kong to Bangkok. Confirming a week of free housing in exchange for painting and hammering a new hostel in Taiwan. It is a puzzle that I have come to love, where the possibilities are actually endless and no choice is wrong.

As my mind has been in far off places, my heart has been in America. The book I am reading is currently waxing poetic about the American baseball experience. I have been reminiscing about good times past with friends who I will see in the near future. I am still gauging my feelings about being “home” or abroad during the holidays. Some old insecurities swelled up after an unexpected message from a dear friend. A few tears have squeezed out, but it has truly felt good, a stretching and waking up of old things. I have reached the Pacific Ocean, and on the other side, is my home.

This is the balancing act that I replay every day. ”

I arrived in Tokyo on time after a bumpy flight over Korea and was met in the train station by Luke, a friend from college who I haven’t seen in at least three years. He has been living in Tokyo for over two years, teaching english and other things at a Christian school. He and his girlfriend Hannah have taken me in and shown me so much more of Tokyo and the area than I could possibly find or experience on my own. It was been a great time.

My first day in Japan after arriving we got right out of Tokyo and went up to Nikko. On the way I had my first and VERY welcome Japanese food: “Eki Ben,” meaning “station lunch.” it was just a bento box bought at the little shop in the station, but it was delicious. And even better, there was no mutton in sight, and lots of VEGETABLES! And even the box was beautiful!!

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Nikko is two hours north of the city and is famous for it’s World Heritage shrines and waterfalls. The first day we went to Tōshō-gu Shrines and Temples. The complex houses both Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, decorated in a much brighter fashion than most others in Japan, so I’m told.

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Also there was THE ORIGINAL “See no, hear no, speak no evil” monkey carving. It is part of a series of carvings about monkeys meant for children, and I still can’t figure why this one has become so famous.

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We spent the night in a hostel up on the mountain, and the next day went for a lovely hike last a famous bridge and three waterfalls. We were on the lookout for monkeys and bears but only saw a couple of raccoons scamper off.

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I’ve been pretty much eating every different snack and street food that is appealing, which on this day included crickets fried in some kind of sweet soy sauce. It was actually pretty good.

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I did pass up the “fish on a stick.”

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We returned to Tokyo that evening. Yesterday we went to Harijuku in central Tokyo and then Shinjuku downtown. Harijuku is famous for people dressing up like anime characters and other crazy things, but we didn’t see many. It’s also a famous shopping area for tourists and teenagers, and it was packed!

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Next we walked to Meiji shrine (the Emperor’s personal shrine) and yoyogami park. Before hopping on the subway for a sunset view over the city from the Metropolitan building.

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Last night they treated me to a home cooked Japanese hotpot dinner! We boiled tons of veggies and some tofu and meat in delicious kimchi sauce.

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Today the tour continued, based somewhat on food. We had “monja yaki” for lunch, which is a crazy cook-your-own pile of protein, cabbage, and other things in a delicious thick sauce. So good!

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After lunch we went sightseeing in west Tokyo: to the Sen-Soji temple in Asakusa, then to an awesome view of the Sky Tree over the river, and the “Scramble,” the famous five-way intersection that is compared to Times Square.

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Finally, they took me to a “conveyor belt” sushi place! You sit in front of a little conveyor belt and just take whatever looks good as it goes by! This place also had a train that delivered special orders. It was delicious and so much fun!

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To be brief, Tokyo has surprised me a lot. It is the largest city in the world, but it is quiet and clean and orderly. The streets are often narrow but always well kept with potted plants on the sidewalks. The subway system is a daunting mystery, but with my friends guiding me it has been a lot of fun.

Tomorrow I will do some sightseeing on my way up to Matsumoto, where I was hoping to head into the “Japanese Alps” for a couple days hike. However it sounds like a typhoon is coming which would change my plans. I’ll decide in the morning! This next adventure is off to a good start.

4 comments for “Japan: Tokyo & Nikko

  1. October 14, 2013 at 9:21 pm

    Fish on a stick or Crickets for dinner? Hmmmm. I just have to share this posting with my friend Celia who cooks Asian food all the time. Yum, kinda.

  2. Barb Parker
    October 15, 2013 at 4:57 pm

    I love the phrase, “where the possibilities are endless, and no choice is wrong.”

  3. Itaginilt
    August 28, 2021 at 8:20 am
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