So much seeing, thinking, and feeling has happened in the last few days. Without sharing too much, my friend Kelly has decided to return home to Vermont earlier than planned. I am completely supportive of her doing what she needs to, however it has put me in a bit of a pickle with what to do with an extra unplanned week. The easy answer to that would be go join Jonathan in Jordan for his planned itinerary; Jerusalem, Petra, and the Dead Sea. However the current political makes that complicated as well.

In fact I have been questioning Cairo more as well since the latest security warning. I had a long talk with Jonathan who was very reassuring and flexible, which I appreciate so much. But he also suggested I wait a few more days before canning our Cairo plans, and see how things settle out. After our conversation I read a bunch of articles on the embassy closings, which basically say we know there is a threat, but we have no idea where it will be. It could be in Europe or the US just as much as in the Middle-East/north Africa. After the Libyan embassy disaster last year I’m sure the US Intelligence does not want to take any chances with overseas security. I know I’m still taking a risk but I remember after 9-11 there was a lot of talk about not living in fear; for if we live in terror the terrorists will have achieved their goal. I called Egyptair this afternoon to see if they were one of the airlines that is offering free amendments or cancellations, which they are not. So I continue to wait to decide where I will be next week.

In the interim, Kelly and I have been having a blast here in Scotland, seeing so much, and going where the wind takes us. We rented a car in Edinburgh which has been wonderful; we set out each morning with a rough plan but are constantly sidetracked by signs and opportunities.

We spent one day wandering around Edinburgh; popping in to random attractive buildings, scoping out the coffee scene (her husband is a serious and passionate barista), wandering into the free “Museum of Childhood,” being overwhelmed by the Fringe (an enormous and immensely eclectic art festival), and admiring the sites. We both really enjoyed that city, with its mellow energy and general ‘oldness.’

The next day we headed up through St. Andrews, where the Scotland Women’s Open was happening on the world’s oldest golf course. We also saw the cathedral and the ruins of the castle before moving on.

We also found a Highland Games event, which we paid to get in to but left less than an hour later. It was basically a big central field fenced off with people sitting all around it watching any one of 3 or 4 simultaneous events. While we were there we witnessed a bagpipe group competition, all ages Scottish dancing competition, the hammer throw, and a bicycle relay race. I’m glad we went but wish we could have seen more of the ‘heavy’ events; sheep tossing, log throwing, and those things.

On our way up to Aberdeen Kelly spotted a sign for Kellie Castle! We were pleasantly surprised by how grand and artistic is was. It seems most of the castles in this area have been added onto in subsequent centuries after they were no longer important defensive structures to keep up with architectural fashion. We walked around the castle and gardens and found an art gallery in the basement. We had a nice chat with the artist, who mentioned that it was the day of a big art festival in the nearby town of Pittenweem! So our detour furthered and we wandered around the streets of a quintessential Scottish fishing town. The arts fest was really cool in that it spread across the entire town; people rent out their basements, garages, spare rooms, barns, even their entire apartments, to artists to display their work. There were at least 90 venues!

In the last few days we have seen no fewer than 8 castles. First was Kellie castle, followed by Glamis Castle, where we paid for the last tour of the day and learned about this place where the Queen Mother grew up, and Bonnie Prince Charles overnighted on his flight from Scotland (and left his pocketwatch).

Another notable castle was Balmoral, which we couldn’t get close to since the Queen is currently in residence! Instead we went to tour the Royal Lochnager distillery; the “most expensive scotch whiskey.” We got to see the entire process, and “nose” directly out of some of their stash of barrels including a 40 year old! We also got a free sample of course.

Today off to the Highlands and the Lochs!